His statement, “or war,” means that it is permissible to wear silk in war against the disbelievers. In some copies, it reads, “or scabies.” According to the reading “or scabies,” it is a case of conjoining the specific to the general, since scabies is an itch. According to the reading “or war,” however, it is the conjunction of two distinct matters. When there is a possibility that a conjunction is either between two distinct matters or that it joins the specific to the general, the former is preferable, because joining the specific to the general is somewhat repetitive: that particular instance has already been included by the general wording. Accordingly, the first reading is more likely.
Thus, in war, wearing silk is permissible because it enrages the disbelievers. When the disbelievers see the Muslims in such attire, they are filled with rage, their morale is broken, and they realize that the Muslims are living in ease and are not concerned about the war. For a man who adorns himself in silk seems, by the very state of his appearance, to be saying: “I do not care about the war; that is why I have gone to wear this soft garment.” For this reason, during battle they would sometimes place ostrich feathers upon their turbans, so that a man would be recognized as courageous and unconcerned about the war.
The Prophet ﷺ saw Abu Dujanah, Simak ibn Kharashah, strutting in his walk between the two ranks at the Battle of Uhud—that is, walking haughtily—and he ﷺ said: “Indeed, this is a manner of walking that Allah hates, except in a situation such as this” (1), because it displays superiority and pride before those disbelievers.